Well drilling cost
Per foot, by depth and by geology — what drives the number, what a quote should include, and what the whole first well actually costs once the pump and tank are added.
Last updated · Planning ranges, not quotes
The short answer
A complete drilled well typically costs $3,000 to $18,000, with most homes landing around $5,500 to $9,000 for a 100–200 ft well in average ground. Drilling alone runs $25 to $65 a foot, and geology — not depth alone — drives most of the spread: sand and clay drill for $25–$35/ft, granite for $45–$85/ft.
Well drilling cost at a glance
Total cost tracks depth closely once geology is held constant, because deeper means more pipe, more casing and more time on the rig. These are complete-system figures — drilling, casing, pump, tank and electrical hookup — for an average-ground well.
| Depth | Typical total, complete system | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 50 ft | $3,000–$5,500 | Shallow water table; less common for a primary supply |
| 100 ft | $5,000–$8,000 | Common in softer ground |
| 150 ft | $6,000–$10,000 | The typical range for many residential wells |
| 200 ft | $7,500–$13,000 | Common where the water table sits deeper |
| 300 ft | $10,000–$18,000 | Harder ground or a deeper aquifer |
| 500 ft and deeper | $16,000–$35,000+ | Mountain and hard-rock regions |
| National average | ≈ $7,500 | The realistic spread runs $3,000 to $40,000+ |
Planning ranges compiled from published contractor pricing (Angi, HomeGuide, WellDrillingCosts.com — see sources below), not quotes. Geology moves this more than depth alone does — see the cost by geology table. How we compile cost ranges is on our own methodology page.
Drilled, driven or dug — this page is about drilled wells
“Dig a well” is a common way to search for this even though almost no residential well today is dug in the literal sense. There are three broad construction methods, and cost differs sharply between them.
| Type | How it's built | Typical depth | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drilled | A rotary or percussion rig bores a narrow hole, cased and grouted — the modern standard, and the subject of this page | 100–400+ ft | $3,000–$18,000+ complete |
| Driven (point) well | A small-diameter pipe with a pointed screen is driven or hammered into the ground | Under 30 ft — needs a shallow water table and soft ground | $1,000–$3,500 — the cheapest option where it's viable |
| Dug or bored | A large-diameter hole excavated by hand or auger, historically lined with stone or tile | Under 50 ft | Largely historical for new construction; rarely built new today because it's shallow and more exposed to surface contamination |
A driven point well is the one genuine budget option, but it only works with a shallow water table and ground soft enough to drive a pipe through — sand, gravel or light soil, not rock or dense clay. Where it’s viable, it’s also the closest thing to a legitimate DIY well; see can you drill it yourself below. Everywhere else, drilled is the only realistic option, which is what the rest of this page prices out.
What a per-foot price is actually paying for
A quote of “$40 a foot” sounds like a simple number, but a few hundred feet of hole is only useful once it’s cased, sealed and screened. Each of those is a real cost, and a cheap per-foot number sometimes means one of them is billed separately rather than genuinely cheaper. Two quotes at $35 and $45 a foot aren’t necessarily $10 apart in value — one may include grouting to code depth and a name-brand screen, the other a minimum grout plug and a cheaper slotted pipe. The only way to know is to ask, line by line.
- Casing lines the borehole so it doesn’t collapse and keeps the walls of the hole from contaminating the water. Steel or PVC, sized to the borehole diameter.
- Grout fills the gap between the casing and the borehole wall near the surface, sealing off the route surface water and contaminants would otherwise take straight down the outside of the casing into the aquifer. Most state rules require it to a minimum depth.
- The screen is a slotted section of casing set in the water-bearing zone that lets groundwater in while keeping sediment out — the part that determines how much sand ends up in your pressure tank.
Casing cost: steel vs PVC
| Material | Typical cost per foot | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| PVC (schedule 40/80) | $6–$15/ft | Most common; corrosion-proof; typical life 50+ years |
| Galvanized steel | $15–$25/ft | Handles deeper, unstable ground; typical life 25–40 years |
| Stainless steel | $30–$130/ft | Deep, high-pressure or corrosive-water wells; less common residentially |
PVC is standard for most residential wells and costs roughly a third to half of steel for the same diameter. Steel earns its price in deep wells, unstable formations, or where local code requires it — your driller, not a general guide, knows which your ground needs.
What drives your price
Two wells at the same depth can price a few thousand dollars apart. This is what actually moves the number, roughly ranked by how much it typically swings the total.
| Factor | Typical swing | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Geology (soil vs rock) | 2–3x per foot | Hard rock drills far slower than sand or clay and wears bits faster |
| Depth to a productive aquifer | Roughly linear with depth, plus a step up past ~300–400 ft | More casing, more pipe, and deep wells often need a bigger rig |
| Casing material | $10–$100+ per foot difference | Steel costs several times PVC; needed where the ground demands it |
| Well yield required | Can mean redrilling or hydrofracturing | A hole that doesn't produce enough water isn't finished at the target depth |
| Site access | $500–$3,000+ | A rig that can't reach the pad directly means extra setup, hose runs or a smaller rig |
| Region and local labor/fuel cost | 20–40%+ between regions | See the by-region table below |
| Permitting and required inspections | $0–$500, plus time | Local rules vary; some counties add site visits and water sampling |
| Pump, tank and electrical | $2,700–$5,500 typical, billed separately | Often quoted apart from the per-foot drilling price — see the total below |
Cost by geology, and by region
Geology is the single biggest lever on price per foot, because it decides how fast the bit advances.
| Ground type | Typical cost per foot | Where it's common |
|---|---|---|
| Sand, gravel or clay | $25–$35/ft | Coastal plains, much of the upper Midwest |
| Sandstone or shale | $30–$50/ft | Appalachian region, parts of the Northeast |
| Limestone / karst | $35–$55/ft | Florida, Texas Hill Country, and other karst regions |
| Granite or other hard rock | $45–$85/ft | New England, and much of the mountain West |
Region compounds geology with local labor rates and how far a rig has to travel. These are complete-system totals for a typical residential well, not per-foot prices.
| Region | Typical total, complete system | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Gulf Coast and Southeast coastal plain | $3,000–$8,000 | Shallow water table, soft ground |
| Midwest and Great Plains | $5,500–$10,000 | Mixed geology, moderate labor rates |
| Mid-Atlantic and Piedmont (inland Southeast) | $6,000–$14,000 | More rock than the coastal plain; wide depth range |
| Southwest and Mountain West | $10,000–$20,000 | Deeper aquifers, harder ground, longer travel |
| New England and parts of the Northeast | $12,000–$25,000+ | Granite bedrock and higher labor costs |
Regional and geology figures are planning estimates compiled from published contractor pricing. Your own lot can sit on a different formation than the regional average — a local driller who has drilled your street before is worth more than any regional table.
Permits and well registration
Most states require a construction permit before a well is drilled, issued by a county or state health or environmental agency, and require the work to be done by a licensed or certified well contractor. Requirements and fees are set state by state — sometimes county by county — so there is no single national number.
The permit isn’t only a fee to budget for — approval can also be where you learn whether the lot works at all, since the same application usually checks setback distances against septic systems, property lines and any known contamination sources before drilling is approved. A permit that comes back with conditions attached is worth reading carefully, not treating as a formality.
- Some states charge no state-level fee for a residential well permit, while a county may still add a processing or water-sampling fee.
- Others charge a flat permit fee, commonly in the $50 to $500 range, sometimes bundled with a required water test.
- Contractor and driller licensing is separate from the homeowner’s permit — it’s the state’s way of controlling who is allowed to drill, not an extra cost you pay directly.
North Carolina
In North Carolina, a private drinking water well construction permit is required from the county health department before drilling, and the well must be built by an NC-certified well contractor. The permit is generally valid for five years, and the state itself does not charge a fee for it — though a county may charge for its own processing, site visit or water sampling, so confirm with your county health department before budgeting. Pump- or tank-only repair work that doesn’t break the well seal is exempt from a new permit.
Sourced to NC DEQ and NC DHHS Division of Public Health — see sources. Every other state sets its own rules; check your state or county well program before drilling anywhere else.
Static well vs artesian well cost
“Artesian” describes what the aquifer does, not a different way of drilling. In a static (water-table) well, the water sits at some level in the casing and a pump lifts it. In an artesian well, the aquifer is confined and under enough natural pressure that water rises in the casing on its own — sometimes high enough to flow at the surface without any pump at all.
| Static (water-table) well | Artesian well | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical drilling cost | In line with regional per-foot rates | Often somewhat higher — commonly cited around $25–$45/ft |
| Why it costs more | — | Confined aquifers are often deeper, and a flowing well needs pressure-rated fittings and a check valve |
| Pumping cost | A pump runs on demand | Can be reduced or eliminated if the well flows naturally |
| Fittings | Standard pitless adapter | May need a flowing-artesian-rated adapter and shutoff, roughly $150–$400 extra |
Whether your site can reach an artesian aquifer is entirely local — a driller who knows the area will know before drilling starts, not after.
What if it comes back dry — or just weak
Most drilling contracts price by the foot regardless of what comes out, so a well that produces less than hoped still costs what was drilled to that depth. The question then is what fixes low yield, and what that costs.
| Option | Typical cost | When it's used |
|---|---|---|
| Hydrofracturing (hydrofracking) | $1,500–$4,000 | First option in fractured rock; injects water under pressure to open existing fractures and connect the well to more of them. Widely reported success in the 70–90% range for a meaningful yield gain |
| Deepening the existing hole | $3,000–$6,000 | When a deeper section of the same aquifer looks more productive |
| Redrilling nearby | $6,000–$12,000 | When the location itself is the problem; no guarantee the new hole does better |
| Storage and booster system | $1,500–$5,000+ | A cistern or large storage tank with a booster pump, sized to bank water between low-flow recovery periods, when redrilling isn't attractive |
Hydrofracturing is usually tried first on a fractured-rock well because it costs a fraction of redrilling and often works — but it isn’t guaranteed, and it does little for a well in unconsolidated sand or clay where there’s simply not much water present. A driller who has worked your area can tell you which failure mode is likely before you pay for anything.
Ask before drilling starts what happens contractually if the well underperforms — some contractors include one hydrofracturing attempt, others price it as a separate call. Get it in writing rather than assuming.
If a hole is truly abandoned — redrilled elsewhere rather than fixed — most states require it to be properly plugged and sealed, not just capped, to stop it becoming a direct path for contamination into the aquifer. Proper abandonment (grouting the hole full, top to bottom) typically costs a few hundred to around $2,000 depending on depth, and it’s a legal requirement in most states, not an optional tidy-up.
What actually happens, start to finish
A rough sequence for a typical residential well, though exact order varies by state and contractor:
- Site visit and quote. A driller looks at access, checks local well records for the area, and quotes a per-foot rate with an estimated depth range — rarely a fixed depth, since nobody knows exactly how deep until drilling starts.
- Permit application. Filed with the county or state health or environmental agency; approval can take anywhere from same-day to a few weeks depending on the jurisdiction.
- Mobilization. The rig, casing and equipment arrive on site — usually the same day drilling starts.
- Drilling. Often a single day for a straightforward residential well, sometimes two for deep or hard-rock wells. The driller logs what's struck at each depth.
- Casing, grouting and development. Casing and screen are set, grout is placed, and the well is “developed” — pumped hard for a period to clear drilling sediment and settle the formation around the screen.
- Pump and tank installation. Often the same contractor, sometimes a separate visit — see the full cost breakdown below.
- Water sample and sign-off. Many jurisdictions require a bacteria sample, sometimes a fuller panel, before the well is approved for use.
End to end, from permit application to running water, one to three weeks is typical — permit turnaround and contractor scheduling usually take longer than the drilling itself.
Vetting a contractor
Because a well is a one-time purchase most homeowners make once, it’s worth a few minutes of checking before signing.
- Confirm the license or certification through your state’s licensing board — most states publish a searchable list, and WellOwner.org maintains a contractor-lookup tool.
- Ask for references from jobs in your specific area — geology is hyper-local, and a contractor who has drilled your road before is worth more than one with a longer resume elsewhere.
- Confirm insurance, including liability coverage — drilling equipment near a house, septic system or underground utilities carries real risk.
- Get at least two quotes with the same scope — casing material, whether pump and tank are included — so the numbers are actually comparable.
Before you drill: is a well even viable here?
A handful of checks before signing a contract can save a wasted mobilization fee.
- Check setback distances. Every state sets minimum distances between a well and things that can contaminate it — septic tanks, drain fields, property lines, livestock areas and fuel storage. Commonly cited model figures are in the range of 50 ft from a septic tank, 100 ft from a drain field, and 10 ft from a property line, but exact numbers are state- and often county-specific, and your county can require more than any general figure. The EPA’s own guidance is to check with your local health or environmental agency before you assume any setback — it does not publish one national number.
- Ask neighbors, or your driller, what's typical on your street. Depth and yield on an adjoining lot are not a guarantee, but they're a useful sanity check on a quote.
- Confirm the permit before mobilization. A driller showing up without an approved permit is a red flag, not a time-saver.
- Ask what happens if yield is low — see above — before you need the answer.
- Get the water tested once the well is in. A newly drilled well should be tested before anyone drinks from it, not assumed clean because it’s new. Read what the results mean.
The full cost of a new well, not just the hole
The per-foot number and the “complete system” ranges above already include a typical pump and tank, but it’s easy to see only the drilling line and miss the rest. Here’s a worked example for a common case — a 150 ft well in average ground, submersible pump — built from the figures on this site’s own pump and tank cost pages rather than re-estimated here, so the numbers stay consistent across the site.
| Line item | Typical cost | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Drilling, casing, screen, grouting (150 ft, average ground) | $4,500–$8,000 | This page — depth and geology tables above |
| Submersible pump, installed | $1,500–$3,000 | See well pump replacement cost |
| Pressure tank, installed | $400–$1,500 | See pressure tank replacement cost |
| Electrical hookup to the pump circuit | $500–$1,500 | This page — commonly billed separately from drilling |
| Water line from wellhead to the house | $500–$3,000 | Distance-dependent; longer runs on rural lots |
| Permit and water sample at completion | $0–$500 | State and county dependent — see permits above |
| Typical total, 150 ft well | $7,400–$17,500 | Sits inside the complete-system range above |
Treatment is deliberately left off this table, because it depends entirely on what the water test shows — a well with hard water and nothing else adds a softener at $800 to $2,500; a well with iron or low pH adds more. See what treatment typically costs once you have a result to plan against.
A five-figure total is a real barrier for some buyers, which is part of why the National Ground Water Association has publicized a water-well loan program aimed at homeowners financing a new well specifically — worth asking a contractor or your state groundwater association about if paying the full amount up front isn’t realistic. Some general home-improvement lenders and, in a few areas, USDA rural development loans also cover well construction — availability depends on your location and lender.
What a fair quote looks like
A complete, comparable quote states, in writing:
- the price per foot for drilling, and what it includes (casing, screen, grouting);
- casing material and diameter, and the depth grout will be placed to;
- whether the pump, tank, electrical hookup and house water line are included or separate line items;
- who pulls the permit, and whether the fee is included;
- what happens, contractually, if the well is low-yield or dry;
- a mobilization or trip fee, if the site is far from the contractor’s base;
- the warranty on workmanship, separate from any equipment warranty.
Red flags
- A single lump sum with no per-foot rate. You can't compare it to another quote, or know what changes if depth changes.
- No mention of grouting or casing depth. Both protect your water quality, not just the structure of the well.
- Silence on what happens if yield is low. Ask before you sign, not after.
- Pressure to sign before a permit is confirmed. Drilling without an approved permit can mean redoing work later.
Can you drill it yourself?
For a permanent drinking-water well, almost never legally — most states require a licensed or certified well contractor for any new well construction, and a permit and final inspection are typically required regardless of who does the physical work. This isn’t only bureaucracy: a badly sealed well is a direct path for contamination into the aquifer, which is why licensing exists in the first place.
The narrow exception is a hand-driven “point” well — a small-diameter pipe driven into a very shallow water table in soft, sandy or gravelly ground, sometimes used for irrigation or a secondary supply in regions where it’s viable. Even then, most jurisdictions still require a permit, and it’s not an option where the water table sits deep or the ground is rocky, which rules it out across most of the country.
Sources
National and per-foot pricing figures are compiled from multiple published contractor-pricing surveys, cross-checked against each other rather than taken from a single source:
- Angi, “How Much Does Well Drilling Cost?” — national and per-foot ranges.
- HomeGuide, “How Much Does Well Drilling Cost?” — depth-based and regional cost tables.
- WellDrillingCosts.com, well drilling cost guide — geology-based per-foot pricing and equipment cost breakdown.
- WellOwner.org (National Ground Water Association) — well contractor licensing and testing guidance.
- EPA, “Protect Your Home’s Water” — private well siting and construction guidance.
- NC Division of Public Health, private well permits and construction — North Carolina permit requirements.
Figures compiled September 2026. Well drilling pricing moves with fuel, labor and local demand — treat every number here as a planning range, and get at least two local quotes before budgeting a project.
Frequently asked questions
- How much does it cost to drill a well?
- A complete drilled well — drilling, casing, pump, tank and electrical — typically costs $3,000 to $18,000, with most homes landing around $5,500 to $9,000 for a 100–200 ft well in average ground. Drilling alone runs $25 to $65 a foot nationally, and geology moves that more than almost anything else.
- How much does well drilling cost per foot?
- About $25 to $65 per foot nationally, mostly driven by what's being drilled through: roughly $25–$35/ft in sand or clay, up to $45–$85/ft in granite. That figure usually covers drilling, casing, screen and grouting — not the pump, tank or electrical hookup, which are priced separately.
- How deep does a well need to be?
- It depends entirely on the local water table, which geology sets. Residential wells commonly run 100 to 400 ft, but a neighbor’s well depth is only a rough guide — the driller decides based on local well logs and what they hit going down.
- What happens if the well comes back dry or low-yield?
- Most contracts price by the foot regardless of yield, so a disappointing well still costs what was drilled. The usual next step is hydrofracturing at roughly $1,500–$4,000; deepening or redrilling nearby runs $3,000–$12,000. See what if it comes back dry.
- Do I need a permit to drill a well?
- Almost always. Most states require a construction permit from a county or state health department before drilling, pulled by a licensed contractor. Fees vary — some states charge nothing while counties add a processing fee; others charge $50 to $500. See permits and registration.
- Does the drilling price include the pump and pressure tank?
- Usually not fully. A per-foot price typically covers the hole — drilling, casing, screen, grouting. The pump, tank, electrical hookup and house line are often quoted separately. See the full first-well cost below.
- How long does it take to drill a well?
- Drilling itself is often a single day, sometimes two for a deep or hard-rock well. The full project — permit through running water — commonly takes one to three weeks.
- Is well water free once the well is drilled?
- The water is, but running the system isn’t: electricity for the pump, periodic pump and tank replacement, and usually some treatment. Cheaper than a water bill in most places, but not zero. See what treatment typically costs.
- What's the difference between a drilled well and an artesian well?
- Both are drilled the same way — “artesian” describes what the aquifer does, not how the well is built. It means the water is under enough natural pressure to rise in the casing, sometimes flowing at the surface. See static vs artesian.
- Can I drill my own well?
- Almost nowhere legally — most states require a licensed contractor and a permit regardless of who does the physical work. Hand-driven point wells are a narrow DIY exception in soft ground with a very shallow water table.
Glossary
- Casing
- The pipe — steel or PVC — that lines a drilled hole so it doesn't collapse and keeps the borehole wall from contaminating the water.
- Grout seal
- Sealant placed in the gap between the casing and the borehole wall, typically near the surface, to stop contamination from running down the outside of the casing.
- Well screen
- A slotted section of casing set in the water-bearing zone that lets groundwater in while keeping sediment out.
- Static water level
- The water level in the well when the pump isn't running.
- Yield
- How many gallons per minute a well can supply continuously. Caps how large a pump is worth buying.
- Artesian well
- A well drawing from a confined aquifer under enough natural pressure that water rises in the casing, sometimes flowing at the surface without a pump.
- Hydrofracturing (hydrofracking)
- Injecting water under pressure into a well to open existing fractures in rock and connect it to more water-bearing fractures, improving yield.
- Annulus
- The gap between the outside of the casing and the wall of the borehole — the space grout fills.
- Pitless adapter
- The fitting that carries water sideways out of the casing below the frost line and seals the connection.
- Well log
- The driller's record of what was drilled through, at what depth water was struck, and the well's construction — useful for future work.